Dermaplaning Explained!
Everything you need to know about Dermaplaning:
Dermaplaning is a method of exfoliating and removing vellus (short and thin) hair from the face with a scalpel and the treatment has recently arrived in the UK to a lot of buzz. However, there’s still some confusion as to what it is and why it’s so effective.
Some therapists view it simply as a shave but the treatment is much more than that. The treatment is performed with a scalpel that acts, in very broad terms, like a wood plane, peeling away the layers of dead skin cells.
While some clients are attracted to the treatment for its shave element, it’s actually a secondary benefit to the deep, gentle exfoliation that dermaplaning gives.
Clients always comment on how smooth, clean and fresh their skin feels after treatment, and how beautifully alive and radiant their complexion looks. Therapists who use this on existing clients say that the results are fantastic compared to previous exfoliation treatments used, but that the benefits are also immediate and with no down time.
However, the benefits of dermaplaning don’t stop there. As well as an immediate, appreciable difference to the skin’s look and feel, it can also be used effectively to target scarring (particularly acne scars), sun damage, pigmentation and fine lines. These are progressive gains, so the client would need a course of monthly treatments, but most love the effect so much that they’re eager for more.
Dermaplaning is also a good starting point for further treatments. Removing dead skin cells means that anything you apply to the skin afterwards is going to work at a deeper level. Much of the effectiveness of facials are usually diluted because of absorption and reflection by these cells.
So, any serums, creams and lotions applied to the skin will be much more effective as they don’t have to fight their way through the dead skin cells. Some of my students have also had great results using dermaplaning alongside LED facial masks, galvanic facials, radiofrequency and chemical peels, to name but a few.
WILL MY HAIR GROW BACK THICKER OR DARKER?
For those of you wondering if dermaplaning will make your hair grow back thicker and darker, I'm happy to confirm that IT'S A MYTH! Since dermaplaning doesn’t hurt your hair follicles, your facial hair will grow back exactly as it was before.
When you dermaplane, you are removing very, very fine hair called vellus hair. This hair is so thin and soft that removing it with a dermaplaning tool will have little to no impact on how it looks when it grows back.
Your hair will just grow back to normal if you stop shaving. The razor makes a blunt tip, so it might *appear* like the hair is growing thicker for a short period of time, but once it gets a bit longer, you’ll see that it’s the same! Nothing is happening to the hair follicles themselves. You aren’t going to have a 5 o’clock shadow or anything, don’t worry!
Do Prioritize Your Skincare Routine After Dermaplaning
Dermaplaning provides immediately visible improvements, and your complexion will continue to improve as new collagen production plumps and enhances your skin.
Dermaplaning also has the unique benefit of enhancing the effectiveness of your current skincare products. By removing fine facial hair and dull skin cells, your skin can better absorb the active ingredients in your routine. However, the treatment can leave your skin a bit dry and sensitive.
Some tips for taking advantage of the benefits while reducing unwanted results include:
Apply a hydrating serum or face oil to help nourish and protect the skin
For two weeks following your treatment, stick to a simple skincare routine
Use a gentle cleanser, hydrating serum or face oil, and sunscreen every day
Drink plenty of water to keep your skin hydrated from the inside out
Don’t Use Scrubs, Exfoliants, and Acids
Because dermaplaning is a skin exfoliation method, you’ll want to avoid facial scrubs and other treatments. You should wait two weeks before exposing your skin to any of the following:
Retinol
Glycolic acid
Other facial treatments, such as chemical peels and microdermabrasion
Washcloths and scrub brushes
Harsh or abrasive cleansers
Chlorine and swimming pools
These are some things that cause irritation, dryness, redness, and swelling. By avoiding these for two weeks after dermaplaning, you’ll avoid damaging your fresh and healthy skin and extending recovery while keeping your skin happy.
Do Avoid Sun Exposure and Extreme Heat
The main goal of the dermaplaning recovery period is to avoid things that will make your fresh and vulnerable skin feel dry and irritated. Avoid the following for at least two weeks to protect your skin after treatment:
Hot water can strip the natural oils from your skin, so avoid using hot water when cleansing your face or taking a shower
Steam rooms or saunas
Direct sun exposure after dermaplaning
Vigorous exercise or physical activity that creates heat and sweat
If you must be in the sun, wear a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher because your skin will be more sensitive to the sun’s harmful rays. Apply it every day, even if you stay indoors; the sun’s rays still penetrate your skin from windows and other exposure.